Passports from the Heart

Tracking the White Rhino of Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park

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When I began writing about travel a year and a half ago I never thought I’d find myself tracking rhino through a national park in Africa. This wasn’t just any rhino. We were searching for the white rhinos that were once near extinction in Zambia. By 2010, there was only one rhino left due to poaching.

The African Wildlife Foundation partnered with the Zambia Wildlife Authority to bring four white rhinos from South Africa to Zambia. Now there are over 10 that reside in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. The park is quite small compared to others (only 66 square kilometers). It sits along the Zambezi river which includes one of the seven natural wonders of the world-Victoria Falls.

During my trip last fall, we visited the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. The drive out into the park was so fun. We saw monkeys, giraffe, and even elephants.  Just like the other animals we expected to drive by the rhino. We were certainly in for a treat. Our driver took us to a gated area. There stood a guard and we were told to get out of the jeep. We were going to begin our journey to search for the white rhino. It was hard to miss the guards armed with AK-47 rifles who were there to protect the rhino from poaching. They stand guard 24/7. While they looked scary with their big guns, they all had a heart for wanting to keep watch over these animals. I couldn’t believe what was happening. When we were told we had the opportunity to visit the park we had no idea we’d actually be walking up to these incredible animals. This wasn’t just any safari!

The guards guided us in a single file line. We were to remain quiet and not make any sudden movements. While the rhino have become used to the guards, they are still quite aggressive, protective, and can move very quickly.

It was surreal to stand there seeing these beautiful animals and even more so when the sun began to fall. One of the most beautiful things I’ve seen in my travels so far is an African sunset.

“Africa changes you forever, like nowhere on earth. Once you have been there, you will never be the same. But how do you begin to describe its magic to someone who has never felt it? How can you explain the fascination of this vast, dusty continent, whose oldest roads are elephant paths? Could it be because Africa is the place of all our beginnings, the cradle of mankind, where our species first stood upright on the savannahs of long ago?”– Brian Jackman

Africa has always been #1 on my bucket list. I was only there for one week. That was not near enough time to explore and it left me aching for more. There’s so much more to see and I can’t wait to return.

 

The Road to Maululu

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Approximately 1-1/2 hours by car off the main road from downtown Livingstone, Africa is the Maululu Clinic. I was in the area with the United Nations Foundation and Shot@Life . Our goal was to see the work the community was doing to provide the locals with immunizations and other healthcare. I’ll be honest. The bumpy dirt pathway made me a bit car sick at times but I tried to focus on my surroundings and to prepare myself for what was to come. The rural areas we were driving through were most definitely a shock as it was certainly conditions I had not seen in person.

During the rainy season, this path isn’t accessible as it quickly overflows which makes it impossible to pass through even for 4 wheel drive vehicles. Our driver shared with us that underground springs and advanced irrigation allows locals to grow many vegetables. The men ride their bikes 2-3 hours in the mornings to deliver the vegetables to downtown Livingstone.

Clearly one of the biggest challenges this clinic holds is transportation. Requests for ambulances take at least 3 hours before they reach the clinic. That’s the minimum. The other challenge is electricity. They only have power for one room which is where the medical refrigerator that holds the vaccines is kept. If a woman goes into labor after dark, the nurses usually resort to holding their phones in their mouths for a source of light while delivering the baby.

The one existing solar panel and refrigerator was donated by the Japanese Government.

Despite accessibility  being such a challenge, this clinic serves over 1600 people. The intake building has three rooms. One which is the office, one to administer medications, and one to store medications. The clinic also has cement benches in the shade outside to help cool the women and their children off. The day I visited it was 105.8 F.

The head nurse, Annie, has been working at the clinic for 2 years. She is an encouragement to the young mothers who visit the clinic. When speaking to some of the women, she gave them gentle pushes to speak up for themselves when answering questions and to look us in the eye. She encouraged them to be confident. Many women in this area are taught to be seen and not heard. Annie believes they should have a voice too.

Nurse Annie

Something that I found fascinating at the Maululu clinic was that they had a mother’s shelter. This is where mothers stay and wait on the birth of their child reducing risk of delivering at home and facing problems without a nurse present. The mothers potentially can be there for several weeks.

Muntinta ,who was 9 months pregnant, and her mother Beatrice had been waiting at the mother’s shelter for at least one week when we met. It’s a three hour walk from her home so she was patiently waiting at the clinic to give birth. Her mother was very excited at the arrival of her first grandchild.

Beatrice and her daughter Muntinta 

Muntinta shared with us that she will make sure her child receives all immunizations as she wants to protect the baby from disease. Her biggest hope for her unborn child is that he/she will be healthy and go to school.

Twenty-three year old Jelina has two children Maria (3 years) and Feelnes (11 months). Both children have had all immunizations. Her hopes for her children are that they will become educated and maybe become nurses.

Prisca has seven children ages fifteen, eleven, ten, nine, seven, six, and seven months. She shared with us that she only became educated about family planning after the first four children were born. Many friends in her community also have seven children. Her dreams for her children are that they become educated as she sees it as a real opportunity for success. Her children have also received immunizations. She said, “when your children are immunized they are healthy and free from disease.”

While the women had their children checked out by Nurse Annie, the men had gathered for their village meeting. I snapped a photo from our car as we were leaving.

I left feeling inspired. Despite major challenges and lack of resources, people like Nurse Annie don’t focus on the negative. They focus on how they can change and save lives.

The United Nations Foundation and Shot@Life team outside the Maululu clinic.

 

 

 

 

*I visited Zambia, Africa as part of the United Nations Foundation Blogger Fellowship*

Giving children a Shot@Life in Simonga, Zambia

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*I visited Zambia, Africa through a United Nations Foundation fellowship.*

The Simonga Clinic outside of Livingstone, Zambia serves over 5,000 people within four zones. Made of cement, the clinic with three to four rooms has basic electricity and no real equipment. They do however have a vaccine fridge. While they provide wellness checkups and even deliver babies, immunizations are very important here.

During my trip there a couple of months ago, I was reminded how easy we have it here in the states. When it’s time for my children’s yearly checkup, I call and make an appointment, they get their shots, and that’s it. I am able to drive there. I don’t have to worry about a power outage ruining vaccines, preventing my child from receiving what’s necessary. Nor do I have to fight wild animals just to get to a clinic.

It’s not that easy in Zambia. Women prefer to come in groups as it’s usually a long walk and most men aren’t involved in the care of their children. This is typically the responsibility of the mother. Each day is grouped by check-ups and immunizations. I was amazed to hear some of the stories for the mothers here. Each day they go through great lengths to get their children the care they need.

The head nurse Mamakau ,seen above, has been working at the Simonga Clinic for four years but as a nurse for twenty. She’s a former member of the Red Cross and has always had a great love for helping people.She has two workers at the clinic but the clinic really would have trouble surviving without the help of community volunteers.

I had the opportunity, along with Martha Rebour (Director of Shot@Life),  to interview two of the incredible moms that benefit from the services at the Simonga Clinic.

Helen with her 8 month old daughter,  Bertina 

Helen is 25 years old and has two girls named Lucky and Albertina. Living 18km away Helen must come early in the morning to avoid the elephants which aside from transportation is one of the biggest challenges in Zambia. Helen brought both of her girls to the Simonga Clinic for their immunizations. She told us “it is an important way for me to protect my children.”

She sees illness often within her village and recently witnessed two young children covered in chicken pox. She encouraged their mother to bring them to the clinic for treatment but due to distance it’s quite difficult for the children to travel while sick.

Lucky, age 3

 

Albertina, age 8 months 

Like most mothers Helen has dreams for Lucky and Albertina.  She says “I would like for Lucky to become a teacher and Albertina to become a nurse or even doctor!” 

 

Petronella with her 3 year old daughter Victoria 

Petronella is 35 years old with four children between the ages of three and fourteen. Thankfully she lives close to the clinic, so when one of her children suffered from asthma and chest problems she was able to get him treatment quickly. All of her children have been immunized. Petronella has dreams for her children too which include medicine, law, and education.

Victoria, age 3

These mothers understand the importance of immunizations for diseases and how they can save the lives of their children. For example, according to the World Health Organization from 2000 to 2015, measles vaccinations have prevented an estimated 20.3 million deaths. That’s an incredible amount!

This Holiday Season, I encourage you to consider donating to Shot@Life. YOU can help protect children like Victoria, Lucky, and Albertina.

 

Click here to make a donation today.

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